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History - Where Did It All Begin?
An island paradise in the vast Pacific Ocean was the birthplace a great aquatic past-time and later widely-loved sport - and though it it is not certain if the idea of riding the wild surf actually originated in the Hawaiian islands, surfing was definitely deeply embedded in Hawaiian culture by the time the intrepid explorer Captain James Cook reached the Kona coast in 1779. His journal described in great detail the act of riding on a shaped piece of hardwood as the magnificent waves thundered towards the beach - men and women either lying or standing on a wooden board that they somehow controlled as it hurtled towards the shore with the swell of wave carrying them along.
However, even though we have firm evidence from the writings of both Captain Cook and his First Lieutenant James King and drawings depicting this novel activity in the historical archives, there is obviously no definitive proof of precisely where and when the idea of riding the ocean waves first began, back in the mists of time. Anthropologists have not been able to determine the exact movements of the migratory Polynesian people and there are in fact records that show surfing was also part of the indigenous heritage in New Zealand, Tonga, Samoa, Tahiti, the Marquesas. Nevertheless, the art of standing on the surfboard and controlling it to ride the waves was ultimately refined, even if not definitely initiated, in Hawaii.
When Cook and King wrote about Hawaii and described the way the locals "played" in the sea it sealed the fate of a people who had been developing their unique culture in relative isolation over thousands of years - a people who lived by a strict set of rules based on taboos. They had rituals and beliefs that tied them closely to the sea and to the land and they had gods and festivals that celebrated their way of life and their use of the sea - surfing was enjoyed by all, yet was definitely considered the Sport of Kings.
Once word returned to Europe of the idyllic and abundant Hawaiian islands, many more ships arrived bringing all manner of disease and foreign ideas. Missionaries brought new Gods, new languages, new customs and new beliefs. Surfing and it's rich culture began to die out and the ceremonies and taboos that had ruled the Polynesian people faded, to be replaced by the white man's paradigm. A population of between 400,000 and 800,000 had shrunk to a mere 40,000 by 1896 - ravaged by disease, alcohol and various other poisons that invaded the islands. Victorian-age Missionaries frowned on the 'waste of time' that the locals invested in surfing and playing, and abhorred the lack of clothing of both men and women, and the informal mixing of the sexes in so many areas of daily life.
As the Polynesian culture began to change, the desire to surf and all of the rituals and knowledge that accompanied it, also began to fade away. But there were a devoted few who maintained the sport of surfing even though their culture, their beliefs and their land had been overrun. Visitors would sometimes attempt to "catch a wave" while in the islands and those who did would take that experience home with them. But in comparison to the way it was when Cook first arrived, the love of surfing had all but died.
It wasn't until 1907 when a renowned author, Jack London, and his wife were vacationing in Hawaii that the stirrings of a resurgence in what has become a world-wide popularity was renewed. It is ironic indeed that the practice of surfing was virtually wiped out by the white missionaries through their devestating influence on the native culture - and yet it was three white men who are credited with bringing the "sport of kings" back into popularity.
Surfboards
Surfing is a great hobby and an exhilarating sport and to enjoy it you need to have the right equipment .
Let's face it, if you don't have a board you're a bodysurfer, right? Well there are are five main types of boards to choose from...the shortboard, the longboard, the fun shape, the gun, and the fish.
The original surfboards were made by Hawaiians who surfed on wood planks, but surfboards have evolved immensely since then. The surfboard of today is hand-shaped by experts out of foam and 'finished' with a fibreglass coat. Surfboards can be custom made for you. A production line model can be a cheap alternative to a custom made fibreglass surfboard.
For beginners the best board is the 'long board' as they are the easiest to learn on, because they are bigger and thicker - making it easier to catch waves, as they are more stable to stand up on. The ideal board should be at least 9' long. The longboard's length, combined with its width and thickness provide beginners a stable platform giving them ample time to stand up and surf.
The Longboard:
Surfboards a traditionally measured in feet. Most longboards average between 9'0 and 12'0 in length and 21" to 24" in width. The advantage of Longboards for beginners is that they are extremely stable and buoyant and allow you to concentrate on getting up on your feet. The main difference in shape is that the nose of the Longboard is rounded. The downside of a longboard is that due to their volume they can be quite heavy to carry.
The Shortboard:
This is the type of board used to perform quick manoeuvres on waves and is the most popular type of surfboard design. The size of these Shortboards is generally from around 5'8'' to 7'' long and and 16" to 19" wide. These boards are designed with high performance in mind. They allow more advanced surfers the ability to quickly change direction and perform tail slides, airs, and other advanced maneuvers that have been mimicked by skateboarders. For the beginner the Shortboard is relatively less buoyant and may be harder to maneuver and paddle. This board is very light and easy to carry so is a good learning board for children.
The Funboard:
Funboards range in length between 6'6 and 8'0 and 20" to 22" wide. They are a cross between a shortboard and a long board with a shortboards maneuvering ability and a longboard's paddling ability. These boards perform well in all conditions and are much more forgiving for the less experienced surfer.
Check out our selection of funboards.
The Gun:
The gun is used when the waves are large and powerful; they are a bigger version of the Shortboard and are used in the big wave arena. The Gun can be anywhere from 7'2'' in length to over 12' for the really big waves.
The Fish:
The Fish is a variation of the Shortboard but is smaller in length. The lack of length is made up by an increase in the width of the board, giving it a slightly more rounded shape. Fish are generally between 4'8'' and 6'0'', several inches shorter than normal shortboards and significantly wider. Fishes incorporate swallow tails which increases its wave-catching ability and provides a looser board.
A Word About Tail Design:
Here are the some terms used to describe the shape of the tail.
Rounded Square - This is the most popular shape. It produces squarer turns and good maneuverability.
Round - The round tail has less planning surface than a rounded square which require more turning from the rails thus producing smooth arcing turns.
Pin - This shape is used for big wave boards for its ability to hold in steep waves.
Swallow - This shape is similar to the rounded square but its larger surface area produce a looser board and more paddling power.
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